Bone r Jams

In the video I talk about painting bone and why the paint coats may look loose.


HuronBH said...

Matt, good post. Remember you Blog should be about your hobby, don't worry about what others are doing on there blog. We come to your blog to read about your hobby and what you are working on. Whether commission or your models.

You do not need to feel pressure to bring us unique content. Your approach to painting and the hobby is all the uniqueness you need.

Old Shatter Hands said...

I used to do layer painting like you've outlined here. I did it for bone, for white, for skin colors...starting with a darker brown and working up to my main color and then highlighting with white. Nowadays I've found that starting with your main color, bone, then shading it with a wash of a darker color (using Citadel washes or creating my own from watered down paints). I've found that it takes less time with brighter results. It just seems more efficient to start bright, shade then highlight...what are your thoughts?

HuronBH said...

OSH, that is actually the basis of the Two Brush Technic of painting that Privateer Press uses. Base your mid tone, then instead of using a wash to shade, feather a darker color from the recesses and then feather a highlight on the edges. If you have ever seen any of Ali McVey's work, 9-10 times that is how she painted the model.

Once you master it, it cuts the time down on painting quite a bit (about half) with amazing results, but is a tricky technique to master.

I can sort of do it on cloth, but that is about it. Requires a whole other way of thinking about light when applied to armor, similar to NMM, which I just can seem to grasp.

Black Matt said...

@ol shatta
It's always been a recipe I've used for doing bone. It's probably the first color combo I learned. Why I do it now, is in large part to the get it match the previous commission. I've done what you explained, even recently on the Nicodem model, but I still think the extra effort shows here. I put the last bleached bone layer on in a watered down transparent layer so some of the darken flesh shows through. I do my nurgle much the same way, except with chestnut ink spread intermittently around so it looks like bruising after the final rotting flesh coat.

Anyway, yes your ways more economical , but it won't look as good.